Men and the statement necklace – The New York Times | Directory Mayhem

When choosing menswear for the spring and fall 2022 collections, designers agreed on one thing: a necklace was essential.

In Milan, for example, Fendi’s menswear fall show in January included beaded chokers secured by double F-shaped locks adorning a neck warmer peeking out from under the collar of a pastel shirt. And at last September’s Dolce & Gabbana Spring Men’s Show, mounds of beaded sautoirs and long chains hinted that the #neckmess trend of recent years could become #chestmess.

“The upper part of the body,” London-based jewelry designer Shaun Leane wrote in an email, “is a larger canvas that is adorned with jewels for multiple pieces, which in turn create more detail and stories about one’s personality.” memories or longings.”

It’s a look from history. Collars indicated allegiance to a European prince or order of knights. Symbolic meanings have been woven into the Maasai tribe’s elaborate beaded necklaces. And in India, it was a privilege of the Mughal Emperors and their sons to wear the longest strands of pearls, grazing the waist.

According to Luke Raymond, senior menswear editor at Farfetch, things aren’t that different today. “There’s a seal of approval for a statement necklace,” he wrote in an email. “It shows that you care about fashion, are willing to challenge conventional notions of masculinity and, in certain cases, have financial strength.”

At Dior in December, the first jewelry collaboration was unveiled by Kim Jones, the brand’s director of menswear, and Victoire de Castellane, creative director of jewelry. A locket set with an opal on the front and jasper on the back opened like a book – a nod to Jack Kerouac’s cult novel On the Road, which Mr Jones used as the leitmotif of his men’s 2022 collection ahead of the Autumn Shows in London.

“I think it was just the perfect good luck charm for this collection,” Mr. Jones wrote in an email, “as it captures the thrill of adventure, exploration, a passion for freedom, the roots cultivated by the Beat Generation -Spirit represents. ”

A locket spanning cultures and centuries, created for the safekeeping of a lock of hair, a miniature portrait, secret messages or other portable valuables, is one of the most intimate pieces of jewelry. And according to Sheherazade Goldsmith, co-founder of Loquet, a London-based brand specializing in clear gold charm lockets (starting at £380 or $500), the style is increasingly attracting men. In an email, she wrote that British comedian Russell Brand “filled his with healing stones and a bespoke Aston Villa FC charm”.

Men with pearls have been in fashion for the last few years, thanks in part at least to Harry Styles. Mikimoto dressed a male model in a meeting-ready business suit to promote the necklace mix of milky white pearls and silver chains he co-designed with Comme des Garçons in 2020, and chose Japanese actor Masaki Suda to direct his new Passionoir (Black Passion) to wear. Collection that included black South Sea pearl necklaces with blackened silver links.

Similar to the catwalk trends of recent years, gender boundaries in jewelry are dissolving. “When we’re working on sketches, we don’t do traditional ones, as we prefer to draw the jewels on top of a woman’s or man’s portrait,” Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne wrote in an email, adding that varying the portraits allows her and allows her team “to better envision the piece being worn, envision the look, think about the multiwear options.”

Among the results was the New Maharani Cristal necklace from the House’s latest Haute Joaillerie collection, Histoire de Style, New Maharajahs, which Ms. Choisne said had a more powerful look when worn by French actor Sami Outalbali (Netflix’s “Sex education”). .

Farfetch’s Mr Raymond said the pandemic has reinforced the trend. “Men have been empowered to take risks and try something new after a period of lockdown,” he said. “Necklaces are a simple, accessible, and symbolic way to do that.”

For example, Bryan Gray Yambao, the Filipino influencer known as Bryanboy, said he recently purchased a classic gold South Sea pearl necklace from Filipino jeweler Jewelmer. “The pandemic made me want to get it,” he wrote in a text message. “I wanted something that reminded me of where I was born – the Philippines. So in November I treated myself to something special that is close to my heart.”

Leave a Comment