On October 4th last week CHANNEL presented his Spring/Summer 2023 ready-to-wear show at the Grand Palais Ephémère in Paris on the last day of Fashion Week at the end of fashion month. The collection is inspired by American actress Kristine Stewart, ambassador of the French house since 2013 and also the face of the Spring/Summer 2023 collection. “Whether it’s her or the other women I’m dressing, I need to feel like they like the clothes anyway. But among the people around me, she’s the closest thing to Gabrielle Chanel, at least in my imagination. She understands CHANEL, his clothes. And with her it becomes even more modern. This collection is her too” said creative director Virginie Viard.
Chanel opened its show with a black and white film shown on the 360° cinema screen, realized by Dutch duo Inez & Vinoodh. Kristen Stewart was questioned by a reporter about the evolution of life. She stepped out of the Le Champo cinema, “wWe’re living in such an accelerated growth phase, it cheers me up” She began. “It’s exhilarating and it puts pressure on us because our identities are these lifelong evolving art projects“. “It’s no longer important to know who you are or what you want. I think it’s important to do your best every day yesterday so you can start all over again.” She added. A morning meditation.
Who could have written better about Kristine Stewart? French director Olivier Assayas wrote the show’s note. He has worked with the American actress for many years, starting with Sils Maria (Stewart won the César for Best Actress), then Personal Shopper and one in the pipeline. “Anyone who has met Kristen Stewart, by which I mean the person, not the actress or her films, knows how she stands with innate elegance and intelligence on the knife edge of her era, on either side of which is the precipice she is standing on tempting”. Kristen Stewart, front row at the Chanel show, wore a black and white cashmere sweater paired with a white and ecru tweed skirt from the Spring-Summer 2023 pre-collection and the Premiere Edition Originale watch.
“The movies we’ve seen, that own us and that we invent ourselves, Marienbad, the New Wave, the allure after Gabrielle Chanel, Karl, the night, feathers, sequins, heels: I like it when things get mixed up,‘ remarked Virginie Viard. In this show, Chanel once again pays tribute to cinema; a multitude of images from the film by Alain Resnais on the giant round screen Last year in Mariánské Lázně (1961) are projected. Back then, Gabrielle Chanel was responsible for Delphine Seyrig’s dresses and selected haute couture looks. In 2018, a newly restored version of the film, made possible by Chanel, premiered at the Venice Film Festival and was then released to cinemas.
A true variation of Allure: refined, freedom of movement and French elegance. Bows, boas, rhinestone boots, jersey worked like scales, sequined white jacket, deconstructed prints, pastel tweed, gold velvet pant dress, black dress with side slits that flows down the body; From lace like a flower to light chiffon: the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection is a collage.
Like the show’s 40-metre-high entrance wall, where images of duo Inez and Vinoodh from the last three years are interspersed with photos of Gabrielle Chanel smoking cigarettes and Delphine Seyrig in L’Année dernière à Marienbad.
Models walked the catwalk covered with black sand with their hands in their pockets. Curvy model Jill Kortleve wore black shorts and a cashmere top with daisy petals and a Chanel logo. The ultimate piece for next summer will be shorts.
Bermuda shorts, bouclé, Vichy check combined with tweed jackets, fishnet stockings or glittery socks.
Black dresses, sparkling evening wear, flowing sheer silk jumpsuits with the embroidered or printed double C.
Chanel tweed is reinterpreted in a range from sea green, apricot, pink to short skirt suits or flared dungarees. In this collection, Virginie Viard has created something for every taste and every look. Paired with black jewelry, crystal belts or opera gloves decorated with bows. It’s the allure of Chanel in 2023.